North Molar Pass

The trail up Mosquito Creek and over North Molar Pass is the most popular route to Fish Lakes, and the pass itself is a rewarding destination for fit day hikers. Try to reserve this trip for a dry period, as the trail is quite rough and muddy for much of the way below the treeline. After about an hour's hike from the highway, the trail passes a backcountry campsite (Mo 5) that is handy for backpackers who have been dropped off at the trailhead by the Brewster bus. (The bus arrives at Mosquito Creek in the late afternoon.) This map (75 KB), based on a Parks Canada brochure, indicates the location of the trail. Click here to view a portion of the topographic map (Hector Lake, 82 N/9) that includes the Fish Lakes/Pipestone Pass area. Cross-country routes and the correct locations of the campsites are shown in red

The extensive meadows of the upper valley are entered after the 8 km mark, and from that point the trail is fairly level and the views continue to improve. Cross-country scramblers may be tempted to visit the high col that lies directly ahead and overlooks the upper Pipestone valley, but most hikers will continue on the main trail as it veers to the right to reveal the objective. (Because of the general bogginess, it's easy to overlook that the trail crosses the Mosquito Lake outlet stream; trail definition improves thereafter.) The final climb to the pass is fairly steep, but the trail is firm and easy to follow. If time permits, a short scramble above the pass on either side will provide even better views.

Mosquito valley from North Molar Pass (65 KB)

For those continuing to Fish Lakes, the trail dives down to an alpine meadow that is equally attractive, but more enclosed. Eventually, the prominent horn of Cataract Peak comes into view, followed by the flower-filled meadows around Upper Fish Lake. The Fish Lakes campsite (Mo 18) is just over 3 km from North Molar Pass and 365 m below.

Molar Pass is also in the vicinity and is well worth visiting. The trail to the pass cuts off the Mosquito Creek trail at the 7 km mark and reaches the summit (2,365 m (7,757')) in about another 3 km. Alternatively, if you are returning from North Molar Pass, head south, to your left, off the trail around where it crosses the Mosquito Lake outlet and hike over the low ridge until you see Molar Glacier. Aim for the headwall that lies in the direction of the glacier, and after about 1 km of meadow rambling you should intercept the Molar Pass trail before it ascends the headwall. From the summit of the pass, there is a good view down Molar Creek towards the peaks in the Skoki Valley (Mt. Richardson, Ptarmigan Peak etc.).

There is also a more challenging alpine route between North Molar and Molar Passes that is highly recommended if the weather is good. This route could be done in either direction, but I will describe it starting from the North Molar end. As you ascend the trail to North Molar Pass from Fish Lakes, a set of orange pinnacles is clearly visible on the ridge to the left (southwest) of the pass. At some point, it will seem reasonable to leave the trail and start up the scree slope that leads to the pinnacles. (The pinnacles also appear to be accessible, perhaps more easily so, directly from the North Molar summit.) I would rate this portion of the route as a moderate scramble. At the top (~8,800'), besides an interesting close-up sight of the pinnacles, there are superb views of the Mosquito and Pipestone valleys. But an even better viewpoint is available by turning left and hiking up to the ridge summit. From the cairn, at about 9,000', the scenery is dominated by Hector Glacier to the south and "Hound's Tooth", which is also prominent from the upper Mosquito valley. Mt. Balfour, the highest peak of the Waputik Range, is visible to the west.

From the summit, I descended to the col at GR 53102180, and from there found an easy route down to the meadows. In bad weather, this is probably the fastest and safest way to leave the ridge, but in normal conditions it may be preferable to maintain elevation by hiking right past the "Tooth" (reportedly, an easy scramble) and continuing along the ridge towards Molar Pass. In both cases, heading in a generally southwest direction will soon bring you to the vicinity of Molar Pass, and the trail that leads back to Mosquito Creek.

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This page was modified on July 25, 2005